A GUIDE FOR DIAMOND SHAPES
Diamond shape is a personal choice – and one integral to the design of your engagement ring!
Whether you like a traditional round look with a brilliant cut, a vintage inspired piece with a rose or marquise cut, or something more modern with a fancy cut – there are many styles to choose from. This blog will introduce you to popular diamond cuts and help you to determine your favourite shape!
Round
Round Brilliant:
The most common and popular style, this traditional diamond cut looks good in any ring setting or style. Traditionally, it has 57 facets (any more or less would make the diamond a “modified brilliant round”). This diamond cut is characterized by its perfect round shape, excellent symmetry, and unparalleled brilliance. It is the best cut to refract light and will make your diamond sparkle best. A true classic, this diamond cut is sure to dazzle in any ring.
Rose Cut:
The ancestor of the round brilliant, the round rose cut diamond is a truly vintage cut. Resembling the shape of a rose bud, this circular cut is characterized by a flat bottom and a large top surface area to highlight the stone’s natural brilliance. Created to reflect sun and candlelight, this type of cut usually has between 3 to 24 facets. Although the rose cut is available in other shapes, the round cut is the most popular modern choice for this vintage cut and brings the romance to a vintage-inspired setting.
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Square & Rectangular
Asscher:
A true hallmark of the Art Deco style, the Asscher cut is a beautiful square diamond choice. With its hallmark step-cut facets, the Asscher cut is immediately recognizable by its parallel and adjacent flat facets that create a “hall of mirrors” effect. Symmetrical on many axes, this cut features a large flat face which gives the bearer a glimpse into the stone to see the characteristic X pattern. Whether you are looking for a vintage Art Deco-inspired ring or simply an eye-catching diamond, the Asscher cut is a beautiful and bold choice.
Cushion:
Cushion cut diamonds have a classic and timeless appeal: with a vintage rounded-square look, the Cushion stands out in any engagement ring setting. While not as immediately sparkly as a Round Brilliant, Cushion cut diamonds feature more dispersion, or fire, than other square cut diamonds. Its curved sides and rounded corners may at first make diamonds of this cut look smaller, but the true nature of your diamond will shine through. Perfect for a solitaire or vintage setting, the cushion cut has a luxurious look that is hard to contend with.
Emerald:
The most iconic rectangular diamond cut, the Emerald cut is a staple of Art Deco elegance and vintage-inspired engagement rings. Symmetrical on two axes, this cut is characterized by the straight edges and step-cut style that gives diamonds of this cut a glassier look that accentuates the stone’s clarity. While the straight cut leads to this cut’s iconic pointed corners, gem cutters may crop them to provide more stability for the stone, and less chance of breakage and chipping. This style lends itself beautifully to intricate vintage looks or statement modern solitaires.
Princess:
The Princess Cut is the second most popular diamond cut, and a real beauty for both solitaire and multi-stone styles. Characterized by straight lines, crisp corners, and a true square ratio, this cut is perfect for many modern settings. Look for settings that protect this stones’ corners, as points are more susceptible to breaking and chipping. Prized for its symmetry and brilliance, this cut has the best of both the Brilliant Round Cut and the square step-cut look.
Radiant:
The radiant cut diamond has the most brilliant sparkle of any of the square and rectangular diamond cuts due to the facets on the pavilion (underside) of the stone. Typically, the radiant is more elongated than the princess cut, and features beveled corners to prevent breakage: this straight-edged cut is truly a beautiful choice. Designed in 1977, this cut exemplifies the elegant modern look in any setting.
Fancy
Heart-Shape:
Exactly as advertised, cutters fashion these diamonds into heart shapes ❤️. The defining traits of this cut are in its symmetry and well-defined cleft and point. Beauty is truly in the eye of the beholder though: the heart-shape of this cut can be wider or elongated. There is no perfect ratio for this design – only what you like best! This diamond shape declares the romance of your relationship to all.
Marquise:
Characterized by its elongated shape and two elegant points, the Marquise fancy cut is a stunning vintage choice. The two tips of the diamond are vulnerable to chipping and breaking, however, thus selecting a protective setting for your fancy diamond is key. All marquise stones have a ‘bowtie’ effect across the middle, a darker spot where light reflects differently. Symmetry is essential to the beauty of this style, but every stone’s proportions are unique! An unusual shape, the marquise is sure to be an eye-catching choice in any engagement ring setting.
Oval:
Closely related to the Round Brilliant cut, the Oval cut has 58 facets which make this stone sparkle brilliantly. Symmetry defines the beauty of this cut and ensures the sparkle’s perfection. Look out for the “bow tie” effect, which some people love: all ovals have this darker shape across their middle, and some are more pronounced than others. The trendy characteristic oval shape elongates the finger of the wearer, and makes this fancy cut a truly modern choice.
Pear:
The Pear shape diamond is cut in the brilliant style and is made of a combination of a round brilliant and a marquise-style tip. Sometimes called a drop shape, symmetry is essential to the beauty of this sparkly cut. As with all cuts that have points, look for protective setting that preserve the integrity of your diamond. All pear cuts have a “bow tie” effect across their middle, some more pronounced than others: make sure you like the bow tie on your diamond! A pear-cut diamond cut is a true classic, great for modern, simple, and vintage looks.
Trillion:
Sometimes also called Trillian or Trilliant, the Trillion diamond has an eye-catching triangular shape. Cut in the brilliant style, the Trillion can have either flat or rounded sides for a geometric or a stand-alone look. As all three corners are vulnerable points, Trillion-cut diamonds should be set in protective bezel or claw settings. A unique and modern look, the Trillion cut will make your ring one in a million.
Shop our engagement ring collection by diamond shape!
www.herbinjewellers.com/engagement-rings
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Written by: Margaret Finlay
March 20, 2023
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